Oil Changes in your car

I will say on the other side of this though... at least get your oil changed once a year. A few years ago when I was nannying, I had the dad's car that day (normally I drove the wife's car, who took the train to work). The car was driving really weird and I noticed the date on the oil change reminder sticker was from 18 MONTHS AGO!! I took the car in to get the oil changed, and after a few minutes, the mechanic brought me back into the shop to show me something - the oil was SO hardened in there that nothing was dripping out when they went to change it. Basically this ruined the engine and the dad ended up just junking his 5-year-old Lexus and buying a new one :) I couldn't believe it.

That is SOOOOOO funny.  I was just going to make a blog with this same subject. What a story, Sarah.  That is sad, but I can see after a whole year it could break down.  So what about driving older cars, Sean--like my minivan that doesn't have the newer engine? 

good to hear.  cuz i always go in for the $29 oil change, and after they badger you for 30 minutes about adding this and buying this and you need this, even though i fight them off bravely, you drive away with a $100 charge.   They've become more pushy than a timeshare salesman.

NOOO, Geoff.  Don't ever listen to them.  AND it should be a $19.95 oil change anyway.

ya thats good to hear, mine just hit the 3000, so I'll wait another 2000 miles

That's good stuff...I normally go about 5-6K miles;  I have an '06 mini van...yes a mommy - mobile and a head turner for sure! ha. 

It would be interesting to know about what year you can start to go longer between oil changes.

Sarah, frankly I find that highly unlikely.  Oil doesn't harden and most likely someone either forgot to fill it, the motor leaked, or it burned the oil.  I've had vehicles brought to me that haven't run in 15 years and the oil hasn't hardened in it.  The reason for the recommendation to change if it hasn't been run for several months is because condensation in the engine causes water to build up in the oil.  Running the engine occasionally can burn off the moisture.  If it sits too long there can be too much water in the oil to be good for your engine. 

My guess was there was simply no oil in the car at all.  But yes, you shouldn't ever go 18 months without at least checking the dipstick quarterly to see if you're low on oil.  My new 2005 suburban burns a couple quarts of oil between oil changes. 

Mom, you're minivan is probably good for 5000 miles, it's not that old.  Just check the manual and see what it says.

Good to know.  I was just thinking I need to take mine in for an oil change, but I probably just need to add some oil.  I'd always wondered why when my car gets serviced at the dealership they say to change the oil after 5,000 - 10,000 miles, but Jiffy Lube will always say 3,000.  They just want me back for more money. :-)

Sarah's car was in Chicago so it probably froze the oil.  My minivan leaks fast enough we just keep refilling so it is a constant oil change.  Alesha, Brad will feel sad if you don't change the Saturn's oil every 3,000 miles. 

Laura, it's true.  A lot of places tell you to come in and change your oil every 3000.  They want your business.

Why do you go to those places to have your oiled changed.....  don't your husbands do it?    I LOVE that Sean can fix and maintain almost anything!!  It's kinda sexy: )

With the coupons it is cheaper to have them do it by the time you buy the oil and an oil filter and then the time taking the oil to a site to dump it.

It cost me about $25 to change oil when I used Mobil 1 synthetic.  Less if I use cheapy oil.  Disposal is as easy as setting it out on the street for the garbage guy.

We can get it for $19.95 with coupon and we have to take the oil to Kragen, etc to dump.

I think maybe you're right, that it was completely out of oil. I really couldn't believe my boss hadn't taken his car in for an oil change that entire time though (he drove his car back and forth to work in the city every day, so it was getting a lot of use too).

Buy a BMW. The dealership changes your oil for free. Their recommendation is once a year.

I believe at some point I've had free oil changes for my cars but it's easier for me to just change it myself and I know some newb isn't doing it.  Ask Scott about his experiences at BMW with the kids changing oil there.  (Cars falling off the lift and way too much oil ruining a $25,000 engine)  I would concur with Charlotte that once a year is probably good (or 5000-10000 miles depending on owners manual).  3 months OR 3000 miles is way to often. 

One time, it was getting kind of late, and I was going to drive to Las Vegas the next day with my brother. A friend said he'd change the oil for me. So he did. The next day, I tried driving the car, and it wouldn't idle. Every hill, I would roll backwards. Pretty scary when you pull out into busy Las Vegas traffic and it takes a second for the gas to kick and get the car moving.

We tried taking it to Auto zone (we didn't have time to take it to a car place) before the trip, and the auto zone guy checked the oil, since I said that's when the problem started. He said the oil levels looked fine, they were pretty high.

So Sean, can you guess what happened?

Oh, I like this!! A car puzzle for Sean!

Yeah, it's like the weekly puzzler on cartalk. A question for click and clack-Sean

Well, many things can go wrong on an oil change but the clue here seems to be rolling backwards and wouldn't go.  Maybe a bit more information is needed such as automatic transmission or manual?

 

My first guess is he put the oil in the transmission instead of the engine.

automatic.

So is my first guess correct?  Oil in the transmission instead of engine?

Sounds like a good guess to me.  Emily, how are you liking it in Lompoc?  What are you doing all day? 

no.

Did he drain the trasmission fluid and but still put the oil where it was suppose to go and that's why the oil was high.

go Robie!

I took the car to a transmission place when we got home from Vegas (to Provo). The guy there said he couldn't believe I had made it from my house to the transmission place, because the fluid was completely drained. I didn't tell him that we made it from Provo to Las Vegas and back too. 

Then I remembered my friend's comment as he drained the oil, "wow, this oil is an interesting color. Kind of reddish."

The mini van leaks oil under pressure, so I have to add a quart almost every time I check it. But at 175,000 miles and still running strong, its entitled to leak a bit. Mechanic says it has perfect compression and it always passes the smog tests. We change about every 3-5 thousand miles.

Well it wouldn't have been my first guess because probably 90% of cars with auto transmissions don't have a drain plug on them.  In order to drain the transmission fluid you have to remove the pan off the transmission.  There are exceptions obviously and yours must be one.  I guess I was close.

hahahaha, that's hilarious emmy.  glad your ride didn't break down completely.

Wow, what a long thread already! My car suggests an oil change every 5000 miles, so that's what I do, which usually works out to every 6 months or so. I take it to the dealership - am I a sucker? But then again I know nothing about cars, and since it's a hybrid I figured Toyota would know better any special care than JiffyLube would.

My Honda Accord has I'm guessing 270,000 miles on it since the speedo broke at 250,000.  It doesn't leak or burn any oil.  I did have to change the rear crank seal when I had the transmission out and that stopped the one leak it did have a while ago.

I have fixed the oil leak many times but it just now came back again.

how old is your Accord Sean? 270,000 miles is impressive. our older car is 94 Altima w/ about 160,000 miles. we're hoping it keeps kicking along for a long time... :) (but it did strand Ben in the North Woods of Wisconsin over Memorial Day wknd, which wasn't so great)

The Accord is a 1994.  The only work I've done is the usual brake jobs, a clutch and timing belt.

 

Oh, and change the oil...

1997 nissan maxima here, with 181,000 miles on it.  and even after being in 4 accidents, the only service done to it was a new starter, brake jobs, and oil.  and the windshield wiper fluid pump has just about given up.   just now tho, sean, i've started to hear squeaky belt(s).   do i need a new timing belt?

If that timing belt goes it ruins the engine.  I am not sure timing belts squeak though.  Our Dodge Minivan is 1994 and has 170,000.  We are going to see whose lasts longer--Larry and Cheryl's or ours. 

Geoff, timing belts don't squeek and not even sure if your car has a timing belt or timing chain.  Probably just a serpentine belt after all the issues you had there with your alternator loose and falling out and all the belt dressing stuff you sprayed on it.  May need a fresh belt or just tightened. 

Timing belts going out don't necessarily ruin the engine.  If it's an interference engine ( a crasher as I like to call it) then that means the pistons and valves are within reach of each other and the timing belt keeps them timed just perfectly as to never hit each other.  When the belt goes, the valves stop and the piston keeps moving and crashes into the valves bending them and causing a lot of damage.  A non interference engine the valves and piston are not within reach of each other and the timing belt going out doesn't do anything other than leave you stranded.  Slap a new belt on and your good to go. 

This is wonderful to learn all this new stuff from Dr. Sean.  See I was right, they don't squeak. 

The minivan has a timing chain, never needs to be replaced. The Highlander will soon pass up the Caravan in mileage, I fear! It has 110,000 already. It has a belt and we already replaced it at 90M. The minivan makes that annoying pulley noise and it sounds like a farm tractor when it runs. All Chryslers seem to do that. Guess thats why they are going bankrupt, like all American cars are!

Timing chains last a long time but not forever.  Sometimes they can break but I don't see much on the web about broken chains on Dodge Caravans.  Maybe they finally got something right on that van. 

Those tensioner pulleys on the Dodge Caravans are annoying.  I hear those things rattling all the time and I know it's a Dodge/Chrysler minivan doing it.

Okay, I have finished Robie and Sean's prize video. Paste this link into your browser to watch:

http://vimeo.com/1194144

Haha, wow.  Great video!  I didn't realize we were going to get our own professional video for that. 

That was SO cute!!!  How did you get her to say all that stuff.   She is adorable!!!   Keep making video's....   they are so fun to watch. 

ha ha.  very cute!

that was hilarious.   nice job.

That was very fun! Great to see Samuel in action for the first time.

How do you get Emily to remember her lines--they are long?  LOVE IT

nice editing job em!! that was really funny. adele and samuel are so so cute. and adele knows so much about cars... :)

Question for you Sean, if you're the oil expert.  I have a thing of oil that's been in my trunk for several years.  I bought it once to add oil and it's been sitting there ever since.  Is it still good?

Brad says yes it is good.

I used to work at Pep Boys

not if its vegetable oil.  dont use that in your car.

Laura, Yes, should be fine to use. 

 

By the way, I don't claim to be an expert, just know enough to be useful.

If anybody has any old quarts of oil they are unsure of using, we will buy it all at the reunion. The minivan leaks out so much that anything can be poured into its crankcase.

Impressive video, Emily.  Can't wait to see the kids in person.

Sean, I need help!! So the "check engine light" went on in Leah's car this weekend. It's a 1999 Honda Accord with 95,000 miles on it. When Leah is away at college, it sits in front of our house. I took it in this morning. The guy told me the issue is either the catalytic converter or possibly just the sensor light for the catalytic converter. So either $300 if it's the light or around $700 if it's the converter. But then he started berating me. He said "We told you two years ago you needed to replace the timing belt, and you STILL haven't done that and if your timing belt goes it will ruin your engine and be CATASTROPHIC!, and you also need the 90,000 mile check up and you STILL haven't done that". Basically, I hated his attitude and pushiness, so I took the car and left. I know I need to take it someplace else now and figure out the catalytic converter thing, but do you think I should have the timing belt replaced or just wait til it goes out? He's quoting $700 for the timing belt, so basically around $2000 for the catalytic converter, timing belt and to vacuum out the car and get the free carwash coupon in accordance with the 90,000 mile checkup. I read all the above posts, and you do say you've replaced your timing belt, but did you wait for it to fail or did you do it ahead of time? Seems like you said for some engines its bad, for some its okay to wait, what would you advise for mine? Thanks for the advice, Dr. Sean...

Charlotte

We had the belt changed on our Highlander for about $200-300, through a coupon special from Toyota. Believe it or not, dealers often times cheaper than indepedents and even our own trustworthy mechanic wanted twice that much. Its a big draw for customers to visit showrooms. Same goes for engine lights, we had a horrendous problem getting ours to reset; I even rented the gauge myself and tried to clear it several times, and it would just come back on. Turns out that a small hose under the air cleaner was being detached each time the oil was changed and filter unit was removed for inspection. Drove me nuts.  If you actually need a catalytic converter, you can find ones on Craigs List for 1/2 the going retail. Alot of them are being stolen here in So Cal from cars, but not for hot market resale, just for component melt down value. We know of people who found replacements through Craigs List  for much less than dealers and independent suppliers.

I don't know the answer to your question, but my check engine light has come on a couple times and neither was an expensive repair.  Once the light came on when it shouldn't have, and another time the repair was still under warranty.  So hopefully it won't be as bad as that guy told you.

Of course that happened to Leah's car the weekend after we were driving it last week! I hope you're able to find an easy (and cheaper) solution for that problem.

And thanks again for letting us drive Leah's car! It was such a huge help.

Charlotte, replace the timing belt BEFORE it fails.  You are due and need to have it done.  If it fails it will cost you a LOT more money to repair the damage caused by a broken belt.  They should also replace the water pump at that time and will probably mention that.  Go ahead and do it.  The guy is being pushy for a good reason.  You're probably looking at $500 for a timing belt job or $2000+ for engine repair if the belt breaks.  Get it Done!

I really doubt the catalytic converter would be bad already, but they are expensive.  I would recommend a dealer replacement.  HOWEVER, before changing that I would elect to change the sensor, probably cheaper and quicker.  If that doesn't work than I'd do the catalytic converter.  Who did you have read the code?  The dealer?  A Honda dealer most likely would know best about reading codes and accurately diagnosing the problem.  Some private shops that specialize in Honda would also do well but you'd need some good references first on what reputation they have.  Since I'm sorta new to the area I don't have any recommendations and therefore suggest starting at the dealer. 

Also, just to clarify.  Some cars it is OK to wait for the timing belt to fail.  This is less common.  Most cars will have massive damage if the belt fails.  Honda Accords are included in this catagory.  It has to do with how much clearance there is in the engine between the pistons and valves (to get technical).  So have your belt done ASAP.  Every 90,000 miles is the interval for Accords.

 

Also, I'm not really sure what the 90,000 check includes.  If they give you a list post it and I can tell you whether or not it's necessary.  Maybe just some fuel filter changes or something.  Cars these days don't need a lot of maintenance anymore. 

I know your car isn't a BMW but when the check engine light came on in BMW's it was due to an O2 sensor 90% of the time.  Those sensors are cheap in comparison to other issues so I suggest replacing those first, clearing the check engine light, and then see if it comes back on.

Thanks!! I really appreciate all the advice and will now feel better about paying the money to get the timing belt replaced. I took the car into Todd's Automotive here in Lake Oswego. They specialize in Honda/Toyota/Nissan, and we've taken our Hondas there many times over the past 15 years, but for some reason today he just really irritated me. He was really rude and pushy, but maybe with good reason, as he did tell us to replace the timing belt back in June 2006, but my feeling was we've driven it for two more years with no problem! So do you think I should take it to Beaverton Honda vs. Todd's? I'm fine either way, now that I know Todd was correct, but maybe Brad is correct and it would be cheaper at Beaverton Honda.

Charlotte, they can quote you the price over the phone.  Just call.  Also have them quote the O2 sensor replacement.  Compare prices with Todd's.  The one advantage dealers have is those cars are all they do and they have all the proper parts and equipment.  Shops like Todds may sometimes use aftermarket parts that don't work as well as OEM dealer parts.  There are only a few things on cars that I feel OK using aftermarket parts on.  Beaverton Honda may also be able to tell you for sure what the check engine light is for.  Ask Todds if they are using OEM parts or not.

There have been private shops I knew in the past that knowing their reputation I would trust more than dealers. Todd's may be a fine shop but without knowing their reputation I can't recomend going there.  I don't know their prices, quality of work, quality of parts or OEM and how accurate their troubleshooting is and I would lean towards the dealer if it were me. 

Sounds good Sean. Everything you say makes sense to me, so I'll call the dealer tomorrow and probably just take it there. Thanks!!

I changed the oil in the mini van Saturday. Usually, we have it done, This time, I did it myself and noted that the drain plug was almost loose enough to take off by hand! That explains much of the massive oil leak. A couple of years ago I replaced it with a new one, WIth 175,000 miles and probably 60 oil changes, the pan is probably worn out, too. Its hardly leaking at all now, just a small drop each night. I bet I could stop it all with an oversize, self tapping plug.

The mini van keeps chugging along, looks like new and won't stop running. But it still sounds like a thrashing machine.

Noooo, my baby is just fine.

We never got a report back from Charlotte on her honda.

Everything is great -- $2,400 later!! (Another reason I couldn't justify the Grand Canyon trip...). The catalytic converter had to be replaced if I ever wanted it to pass DEQ again, so that was $840. They also found an oil leak, and had to replace a seal. The seal was only $35, but the labor to replace the seal was $760 because they had to pull the transmission to get to it. Then of course the timing belt and water pump replacement was another $850. On the upside, they said the car is in fabulous shape...

Holy Cow. 

I know the oil seal you are talking about because I replaced it on mine too when I had the transmission off.  I need to quit this job and start fixing cars instead.

Yeah, I would have MUCH rather given the money to you, Sean.

Went to Pep Boys to get an  engine air filter and a cabin air filter for the Highlander today. EZ Lube always tells me I need to change out both, but I resist due to price they want to charge. Anyhow, I buy both and go to the car to change them. The air filter was no problem, but I could not find the cabin filter. Went back into the store and asked where it is located. The guy tells me its in the glove compartment. Went back out, read the instructions, but there is no cover for it in the glove compartment. Went to the Service Manager and he says its "way up under the dash and hard to reach." I asked him if he can change it, and he says he doesn't have anyone to do it at the moment.So I asked for a refund. Then I looked in the owners manual and finally found it listed under "air conditioning filter." All you have to do is squeeze the ends of the glove compartment drawer and lift out the door, then pull the filter cover off  which is right behind it. Takes about 2 minutes to do it. But Manny, Moe and Jack couldn't either tell me how to do this or assist. They gave me a survey to fill out, and you can bet what I said. They will probably stop my pension benefit I have coming after they read it!

Nice going Brad!

We needed shocks on our mini van. But we didn't want to spend the money on this dinosaur. Anyhow, Valorie (who saves all receipts) found one dated in 1997  as replacements brought from Kragen Auto for Monroe Gascharged-LIFETIME GUARANTEE! So I pulled off the old ones and took them down to the store for a free exchange. Not bad! We are good for another 12 years now (the new ones also have a lifetime warranty!!).

Nice one Brad.

I also need to thank Clark since he bought the last set and changed them. And Valorie kept the receipt. How could we not do better than that.....

I just changed the oil on the mini van. I keep thinking this will be the last time I'll have to do it, and that someday the engine will blow up when its is started in the morning, and then we can get a new or newer car. I mean, its a Dodge, not a Honda, and 200M should be the end of it.  But it refuses to die. Now it doesn't even made that clunk clunk lower end main bearing rattle in the morning. We had the heater leak repaired and the guy in the radiator shop said he has neve seen a 94 Dodge in as clean condition as ours.. it will be the nicest looking mini van in the salvage yard one of these days. But he also said that parts are getting harder and harder to get for these cars, so many of them have given up the ghost already.

Hilarious.  Put it on Ebay.  Maybe it's a collector's item.

i noticed the power-driver-seat is barely hanging in there.  sounds like every gear is grinding.

Yeah, I noticed the same, it grinds really slowly but still moves, except it won't rotate back much. And the passenger door lock no longer works. But these items are not life threatening! Haha

Add Options to this 1994 Dodge Grand Caravan

	Trade-In	Private Party	Dealer Retail
	$479	$924	$1,665

Nothing beats Chrysler resale values---unless you are comparing to a Ford Pinto or a Chevy Vega.

Quit driving it and then we won't have to move the driver's seat anymore.  It is my car.

Others have to drive  it so that you can't continue to conceal the real facts about the condition of this thrashing machine. Looks can be deceiving.

Another article about the 'change your engine oil every 3000 miles' myth:

 

http://autos.yahoo.com/articles/autos_content_landing_pages/1138/reality-check-on-car-care-myths/

Myth: Engine oil should be changed every 3,000 miles.

 

Reality: Despite what oil companies and quick-lube shops often claim, it's usually not necessary. Stick to the service intervals in your car's owner's manual. Under normal driving conditions, most vehicles are designed to go 7,500 miles or more between oil changes. Changing oil more often doesn't hurt the engine, but it can cost you a lot of extra money. Automakers often recommend 3,000-mile intervals for severe driving conditions, such as constant stop-and-go driving, frequent trailer-towing, mountainous terrain, or dusty conditions.

The benefit of taking your car in more frequently is that they also take a look at items such as fluids, tires, shocks, brakes, etc. and make recommendations (of course) to do maintenance. I usually don't do very much they recommend, but it doesn't hurt to know that you might have a problem "down the road: that could be prevented with a little extra care. Most people don't drive 7500 miles in 6 months; I drive it in about 3.

The benefit of taking your car in more frequently is that they also take a look at items such as fluids, tires, shocks, brakes, etc. and make recommendations (of course) to do maintenance. I usually don't do very much they recommend, but it doesn't hurt to know that you might have a problem "down the road: that could be prevented with a little extra care. Most people don't drive 7500 miles in 6 months; I drive it in about 3.

I'm gonna need Ty's input on this one...

Back to oil changes--my mechanic just pulled the pan off my Studebaker today, and he found that it had no oil pan gasket. Someone just oozed tubes and tubes of hardening permatex around the pan and put it back into place whenever the engine was last rebuilt or the pan was dropped. Thats why the car had a sort of BP Quality Oil gush issue everytime it was parked, and I had to add about a quart of oil every 100 miles or so to it. The motor appears good, doesn't smoke and the bearings are fairly tight, with only a little metal grind in the pan. It has some sludge in the pan, but not too bad, This car will definitely qualify for the 1500 mile oil and filter change interval the factory manual recommended. I can do  the oil change myself, and even remove the pan in minutes without lifting the motor off the mounts. Just alot of bolts with a swivel ratchet. In those days, they recommended pulling the pan yearly and cleaning out the sludge build up. But with the new detergent oils, I should not need to. Just needs a zinc additive in the oil for better lubrication. Zinc isn't in the modern oils because of its effect on catalytic converters.

Why do you have to pull the pan to change the oil?

I may be wrong but the way I read it he means he can change the oil himself AND if he needs to he could remove the pan himself as they recommend pulling it yearly to clean sludge but prob not with the new detergent oils. 

Not only does she drive the car now, she knows some things about its maintenance, too! Yes, I'll probably never need to remove the pan again, but in the old days (before the advent of detergent oil) they used to have to remove it yearly and clean out sludge build up. Not a pleasant chore.

Cause I ask a lot of questions--I wanna know every dime that is going into this thing.